Wednesday, December 15, 2010

A mix of old and new in Peru

Peruvian cuisine takes a lot of its influence from ancient indigenous traditions--such as the use of whole grains like quinoa and kiwicha (amaranth)--as well as flavors and ingredients (like rice and beef) introduced more recently by the Spanish. Immigrant groups, especially Chinese, have brought new styles to the table, and Chinese restaurants called "Chifa" are found everywhere in Lima and Cusco. Another highlight is the vast array of produce available, including 35 species of corn, 15 species of tomato, more than 200 species of potato, and many native fruits I had never tasted before--the best of the which was the melon-flavored pepino shown in the lower left corner of the photo below.


Inca Kola is the ubiquitous drink of Peru, with a cloyingly sweet flavor somewhere between Mountain Dew and cream soda. The photo below also shows a dish called causa in which a yellow potato dumpling is filled with a mixture that usually contains key lime, onion, chili and oil.

Sweet fried churros originated in Spain, and in Peru you can find them plain or, as below, filled with vanilla cream, dulce de leche, and chocolate.
The Pisco Sour, along with Inca Kola and Chicha, is a national drink of Peru, made with pisco (a distilled liquor made from grapes), egg white, lime juice, and sugar. We had a lesson in mixing up these frothy drinks at a hotel bar in Lima.
Chicken soup made with quinoa is a popular first course. We tried this hearty dish, spiced with dill and other aromatic herbs, during a stay in the Sacred Valley.
Peruvians eat cuy, or guinea pig, at special occasions. In the highlands town of Ollantaytambo, we visited a local home where guinea pigs were allowed to run around loose on the floor. The cuy we tasted (below) was seasoned with black mint and salt under the skin. There wasn't much meat, and the skin was a bit chewy.
The Incas drank chicha beer, and the tradition continues today. It is made from corn and brewed in a huge earthenware pot, from which it is ladeled into glasses. The pink version below was flavored with strawberry juice and herbs including mint and dill. Before serving a glass of chicha, it's common to spill a few drops on the ground for Pachamama, or Mother Earth.
We tasted a sweet bread flavored with honey and spices that is made at Christmastime during a stop at San Pedro market in Cusco.
Also in Cusco, we sampled chili peppers that had been stuffed with meat and vegetables and then deep fried in batter.
One morning, I sampled a local dish called panqueques (pancakes!) served with banana and honey overlooking the Plaza de Armas in Cusco.
Drinking plenty of coca tea, which is highly caffeinated, was one good way to minimize symptoms of altitude sickness.
Beans are a staple of Peruvian cuisine, as are potatoes and grains.

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