Coppa does not runneth over

A small group of us had intended to go to Toro last night for my birthday dinner, but when we arrived we found it closed for a private party. (Damn! Couldn't they have told me this when I called?) But a waitress who was smoking a cigarette outside and observing our dilemma encouraged us to try their new sister restaurant, Coppa. We were skeptical about heading there in a group on their very first night, but thinking the weather might have kept crowds at bay, we walked a handful of blocks up Shawmut Ave. to Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette's corner spot with a figure of a pig hanging outside its front door. I was immediately surprised by how small the space was, but it was early still, and we quickly got a table. The second surprise was the menu--with a list of $5 stuzzi (starters) and main dishes that were shockingly affordable.





We started with the arancini from the stuzzi menu ($5 each) and an order of roasted brussels sprouts from the verdura menu ($6 each). Both were delicious but far too little to share among our group of five. We added an order of bruschetta with white bean spread, again from the list of stuzzi, and the cauliflower marinated with shallots, thyme and sea salt from the verdura. It quickly became apparent that the verdura provide more generous portions for sharing, while the stuzzi are really portioned for one. Everything was delicious--particularly the tiny brussels flavored with pancetta, pecorino and horseradish--but we were hungry for more, and noticing the bread on other tables, we asked for and received a generous hunk of crusty Italian bread.

We were inspired by the fun list of cocktails ($8 each) to try the Fig Swizzle, made with homemade fig cordial; the Belladonna, made with Gin, Pimm's Cup and Grenadine; and the Piscodora, with Pisco and Domain de Canton Ginger. All three were strong but tasty. Next time I'd try one of the cocktails made with old-fashioned bitters like Aperol, Campari and Cynar. We moved on to wine next and were happy to find a range of reds from $5 to $12, with the $5 choice being a very respectable Sicilian Nero d'Avola.




The highlight of the meal was the handmade pasta ($12 each). Mine was delicious, pleasantly chewy bucatini topped with a red sauce that tasted of pancetta and red peppers. Again though, portions were very small, and I could have eaten a bowl twice the size of the one I got. The others liked their cavatelli di pollo, orechiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, and ravioli made with two kinds of cheese. The only disappointment was the trofie with pesto, which was undercooked.



There's no dessert menu, but Coppa does offer two flavors of gelato--a semisweet chocolate and a rich hazelnut. As one of my friends commented, together they make nutella. Judging from how clean we licked the bowls, I'd say they were a hit. And that we were still hungry. Next time, I'd go to Coppa for a glass of wine and a bite of wood-fired pizza before a movie, or a snack of salumi and a chat at the end of a night. For a full Italian meal, go elsewhere.



Apologies for the terrible pun in the title of this post.