Fort Point's Channel Cafe

Boston is the first city I've inhabited long enough to begin to know its hidden places. In the town where I grew up, there was only 2 square miles of land to cover, and to us as kids, virtually none of it was hidden (not the woods behind the ballpark, nor the banks of the creek, nor the basement of the library). But the nooks and crannies of Boston are legion. I can think of only one other city whose quaint, historic corners have intrigued me more, and that was London.

Tucked away in one such undiscovered spot is the Channel Cafe on Summer St. You have to cross the Fort Point Channel to get there, and even though that's become less of a barrier than it used to be (especially with the arrival of Drink and Sportello), the Fort Point area still sits at a remove from the pedestrian traffic around South Station. But for those of us who venture to this neighborhood daily (and even, I'd wager, for those who only come on special occasions), Channel Cafe is a little jewel box of a place tucked into the lower level of an art gallery, with only a sandwich board at street level announcing its presence.

These days, Channel Cafe is not only serving lunch to the working crowd, but now dinner Thursdays through Saturdays, and the menu is the same fresh, hearty fare that we expect from owner/artist Ana Crowley and Chef Brian Van Etten. Nearly all the produce comes from a place called Enterprise Farm, and locals pick up their weekly farm-share boxes right at the cafe. When I went to try dinner last week, courtesy of Jessica and Elena from 5s, the highlights began with delicious crostini topped with sliced portobello steak, arugula, gorgonzola drizzle, and port wine reduction. Then came honey-glazed baby back ribs with meat that practically fell off the bone, along with zesty jicama slaw and sweet potato fries. And for dessert, a classic slice of New York cheesecake with blueberry sauce and graham-crackery crust.

It occurred to me as I looked around at the Polaroid photos hanging on the walls, the bar made of reclaimed wood, the red leather seats, and the early evening light coming in the windows set high along the wall, that this place is all about satisfying, well made American food with a bit of flair and a few surprises. The night I was there, a Thursday, a DJ was playing lounge-y music in the corner, and a lively, eclectic crowd occupied most of the tables. Because this is still (or once was, or will soon be again) an artists' community, Crowley keeps the prices low. Walk in between 5 and 7pm on a night that they serve dinner, and you can get a burger & a beer for $10.

Not only that--you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you're eating in a place that's still local, still relatively hidden, and still caters to a neighborhood crowd. For the time being.

Photo courtesy of channel-cafe.com.