On foods that contain the word "baby"

Dutch babies
Originally uploaded by andrea.calabretta

The appealing thing about the Dutch baby is that it could be almost anything—from its name alone, you’d never know it was a puffy pancake-like breakfast item that is baked in the oven. Nor would you guess that the word “Dutch” actually refers to the German immigrants to Pennsylvania—known as the “Pennsylvania Dutch” (a corruption of “deutsch”)—who were famous for these pancakes.

But regardless of whether you know what it is, a “Dutch baby” sounds like something pleasant. Its connotations are sweet and warm. And it’s fun to say: “I’ll have a Dutch baby.” You could be ordering breakfast, or you could be waiting on line at an orphanage in Europe.

When the baby emerges from the oven, it is piping hot and full of air, and you can sprinkle a little white sugar mixed with lemon zest on top. My theory is that, in cases like this, the word “baby” can actually enhance one’s enjoyment of a food. Take baby corn, for instance, or baby carrots, each of which is more fun to eat because it feels like a miniature version of the real deal.

But there is one major exception to this rule: when “baby” is applied to animal foods like “baby shrimp” and “baby back ribs.” Because who wants to think about babies—be they human or crustacean—while eating animal products?

Dutch Baby with Lemon Sugar
Serves 4 to 6 (breakfast or dessert)

1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
3 large eggs at room temperature 30 minutes
2/3 cup whole milk at room temperature
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Equipment:
a 10-inch cast-iron skillet

Put skillet on middle rack of oven and preheat oven to 450ºF.
Stir together sugar and zest in a small bowl.
Beat eggs with an electric mixer at high speed until pale and frothy, then beat in milk, flour, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and continue to beat until smooth, about 1 minute more (batter will be thin).
Add butter to hot skillet and melt, swirling to coat. Add batter and immediately return skillet to oven. Bake until puffed and golden-brown, 18 to 25 minutes.
Serve immediately, topped with lemon sugar.